The wait was worth it. It is the first thing one thinks after living the experience it offers Joël Robuchon’s Atelier. And it is that many years have passed -too many- for the city of Madrid, as Paris, Las Vegas, Miami, Tokyo, Marrakech, Dubai or Hong Kong did in their day, to be able to host a proposal from the chef with the most Michelin stars of the world.
It is a pity that we can no longer thank the French chef who died in 2018 in person and tell him that his legacy is safe with professionals like those at the helm of the Madrid restaurant that opened its doors just three months ago.
Both the room service and the kitchen team seem to have been personally trained by the one who was crowned “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 1976“Chef of the Year” in 1987 and “Cook of the Century” in 1990. That not only Michelin stars live the great talents of the kitchen.
Robuchon Madrid: Long live France!
First of all, the first thing is to make it clear that our experience was developed entirely in L’Atelier, which is located on the first floor and is the most exclusive corner of the three that we can find (L’Ambassade and L’Speakeasy complete the offer) in Robuchon Madrid.
Here the concept is mainly made up of a large part of that exquisite recipe book that Robuchon left us for posterity, French haute cuisine icons which are available both in tasting menu and à la carte format.
Robuchon. All recipes (GASTRONOMY AND COOKING)
In our case, taking into account the dates on which we are, and that we are very traditional, we could not resist knowing the menu that they have prepared for this New Year’s Eve. A festival of flavors, textures and unmissable cooking points that is able to convince the most demanding of the palates Just in case this was not the case, cutlery, glassware and crockery will make it easy for you to forget it.
And, of course, in a space of these characteristics, it goes without saying that the winery, with more than 800 references and in which wines from Spain and France share the limelight, it is more than cared for. In this sense, the one in charge of guarding them deserves a special mention, which is none other than the sommelier Alberto Ruffoniwhom you have previously been able to see (and enjoy) at La Caníbal or competing with Borja Olivas in one of those tastings in pairs in which they have participated (note that they won the 14th Vila Viniteca Award).
Saying goodbye to the year Robuchon style
In the Joël Robuchon’s embassy in the capital New Year’s Eve will be celebrated this year, hopefully the first of many, in style. And then we give you all the details of an experience, which although It is not suitable for all budgetsThey are well worth a visit to that mythical place that once occupied the Embassy.
The exclusive menu, like the rest of the gastronomic proposal of the luxurious space, is in charge of the Chef Jorge Gonzalezwhich has seen fit to include some of the emblematic creations of the legendary Robuchon repertoire, together with its own proposals in which excellence and simplicity prevail.
It should be noted that González was, before becoming Mandarin Oriental, executive chef at the Ritz Hotel, also in Madrid, and that the different spaces located at number 12 Paseo de la Castellana, all of them very dynamic, have been designed by the interior designer and architect Lázaro Rosa-Violánhead of the studio specializing in decorative projects for hotels and restaurants.
Let’s get to the point. The menu consists of seven passes and starts with an appetizer, ‘La Truffe’, which consists of a delicate black truffle salad with Parmesan flakes and duck liver granita. A welcome to lay the foundations of what we are going to find as the evening progresses.
then arrives ‘Le Caviar Surprise’, where the protagonist is the fifth most expensive caviar in the world, which in turn was Robuchon’s favorite product. It is a thin layer of crustacean broth to which a disc of king crab is added in the center covered in Osetra caviar. At that moment one realizes that things get really serious.
This iconic dish from the French house is followed by ‘Les Coquilles St Jacques’which is made up of scallops accompanied by truffles and champagne sauce, and ‘Le Homard’, Galician lobster with Malabar black pepper sauce and coconut emulsion. It is at that moment when the Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé champagne gives the witness to Domaine Jules Desjourneys Pouilly-Fuissé 2018a very special white at the same time elegant.
Another point in its favor is that the proportions of each of the elaborationsabove all because you have to arrive with a certain effusiveness to the final fireworks, which is represented by ‘Le Veau’white veal tenderloin from Ávila accompanied by the emblematic “Joël Robuchon truffled mashed potatoes”wisely washed down with a Dominion of the Eagle Reserve 2019 from Ribera del Duero.
If you thought that they were going to falter with dessert, we are sorry to tell you that you were very wrong because it is one of those dishes that convince even to those who don’t have a sweet tooth. In a first step, ‘Le Chocolat’ it wins you over visually. And then this delicate elaboration of textured chocolate with hazelnut ice cream It will make you touch the sky because it is wonderful from start to finish.
From here, those who decide to give themselves this great tribute on the last night of 2022 will be able, with the 12 grapes already on their bodies, to enjoy the cocktail bar that they serve at L’Speakeasy, which is on the ground floor and will undoubtedly become the best refuge to continue the party until three in the morning. Bonne Année!
What to ask for: At L’Atelier de Robuchon you can choose between a la carte and a tasting menu, including the aforementioned ‘Le Caviar Surprise’ and ‘Le Homard’. For December 31, the plan is clear: a New Year’s Eve menu like the one we have been able to enjoy, which is priced at 450 euros (all included). If you are looking for something affordable and informal, your thing is to stay at L’Ambassade, where they will offer you multiple options of pastries, salads, tapas or sandwiches.
Practical data
Where: Paseo de la Castellana, 12. Madrid.
Half price: 40-45 euros in L’Ambassade and 150 euros in L´ Atelier.
Bookings: 914 53 87 28 and on its website.
Schedules: Closed Monday and Tuesday.
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