In Mexico, the price of wheat flour rose 31.9% from December 2012 to November 2022. That of sweet bread increased 18.7% in the same period, according to data from the Consumer Price Index, carried out by the Inegi.
Bakers make small versions to lengthen the sale
Padilla, who runs a bakery in the Peralvillo neighborhood, says that in previous years he opted to make smaller bagels, for five people, even personal ones, to lessen the impact on the price and lengthen the sale.
“They take the little ones when they come days before to buy their bread. Already later on the 6th (January), they buy larger ones because they are the ones with dolls, which is important to see who is going to buy the tamales for Candlemas Day, ”she says.
In the La Flor bakery, the strong production of rocks begins on January 2, and although it is a temporary period of a few days, unlike the bread of the dead, which in some places has been sold for months before, a cashier waits for an advance in sales of up to 50% in the month, after resuming family gatherings.
Competition with supermarkets
For years now, retail chains have also taken the opportunity to sell their Rosca de Reyes on their sales floor, which represents another channel of competition for neighborhood and artisan bakeries.
Elizabeth Beltrán, who owns an artisan bakery, makes a bagel with edible flowers as the main ingredient. She comments that a year ago her business ceased to be her main income, although she continues to produce rocks for clients who write to her.
“It’s hard to compete with the prices of the self-service chains or with other people, who buy their bagels by the piece at Sam’s and only fill them with custard and sell them very cheap. With the increases in flour and sugar, there were those who no longer wanted to pay the increase for my products, although they are different from what they find in any bakery”, he explains.
Juan Padilla comments that in order to compete with the chain bakeries and the retailers They have chosen to diversify the flavors of the bagels from the flours, change the fruits to decorate and even change the figures that they bring inside. “People see something different and they like it, it can be a small change, like the dolls, which sometimes they even keep because they look pretty,” he says.
The president of Canainpa says that customers who prioritize flavor keep their purchases at their trusted bakeries. “The competition is strong for the prices they give, but there are many people who go to an artisan or traditional bakery where they know they will find a good quality bagel,” he concludes.