Fungi live among us in different ways. They are neither animals nor plants, but belong to the kingdom fungi, an independent category within the vast range of living beings that we find in nature. We eat some of its macroscopic species, such as mushrooms, and we also use microscopic fungi such as yeasts to obtain food of great gastronomic value like wine or beer.
However, mushrooms still hold many surprises for the food industry: they are being used to produce meat-like foods by the so-called “mycoprotein”. This is how leading institutions such as the Basque Culinary Center investigate it, who have been kind enough to give us their time to answer some questions about this new emerging phenomenon.
John Regfalk is a chef, researcher and Head of Culinary Innovation within the BCC Innovation, gastronomy technology center of the Basque Culinary Center, an academic and research institution of reference in the gastronomic field located in San Sebastian, Guipuzcoa. Recently, Regefalk showed together with Nahuel Pazos the culinary possibilities of mycoprotein through showcooking at the event Food 4 Future of Bilbao. In this congress of food innovation, the mycoprotein was the undisputed protagonist through the elaboration of a hot dog that did not differ even in the smallest detail from real meat.
What is mycoprotein and how is it obtained?
The hot dog or vegan mycoprotein-based hot dog it was one of the bombshells offered in said showcooking. As the Swedish researcher explains, this product is made up of mycoprotein and achieves a result that is practically identical to meat: “The mycoprotein is what provides that meaty texture, but it wouldn’t work if it weren’t for the rest of our formula, which obviously it’s secret. We use very traditional spices, starches and vegetable fats. By mixing these ingredients in different proportions, we managed to create something that really packs the punch of an animal-based hot dog.”
Mycoprotein is a organic compound from fungi which can be used as a substitute for meat. Regefalk summarizes how it is obtained: “In the first place, it is important to find a suitable source of nutrients for the fungus. By-products from other agri-food industries are traditionally used, whatever is rich in carbohydrates is good for us. They then undergo an enzyme treatment to break down those carbohydrates into simple sugars. In our case, we cultivate the fungi in a liquid medium due to its greater efficiency”.
Subsequently, these sugars are the source of energy for the growth of the fungus through fermentation in large tanks. Regefalk tells us that the large mycoprotein-producing industries have huge tanks that can reach 50 meters in height and 150 m3 capacity. Likewise, size is not the most important: it is also crucial to control other parameters such as temperature and aeration, since the presence of oxygen is very necessary in the production of mycoproteins. In addition, during the process it is necessary to remove the liquid medium where the mycoprotein is grown to favor the presence of said oxygen.
Next, the biomass extracted from the fungus is subjected to a heat treatment to eliminate excess water and is mixed with different ingredients depending on the type of mycoprotein to be obtained. Later, by subjecting the product to freezing, it is possible to obtain a fibrous appearance very similar to muscle meat. And this is where the magic begins: a texture similar to chicken breast is achieved.
In this way, we see that the production of mycoproteins is not something alien to other methods of food preparation that are already established in our gastronomic culture. Like bread, cheese, wine or beer, too obtained through fermentation: a food manufacturing process involving microorganisms.
A full-fledged gastronomic challenge
Before the question of what specific species of fungi are involved in the production of mycoproteins, Regefalk explains that to date the fungus fusarium venenatum is the one who has taken the lead: “Worldwide this microorganism has been the predominant one, but it is true that new strains of fungi are being authorized for food use, for example Fusarium flavolapis. It is a fungus capable of growing at very low pH, which is why it facilitates the growth of mycoprotein as it does not have so many competitors. Contamination is avoided and food safety is increased”.
pH is a key parameter in the production, and also preservation of food: it is a way of measuring the acidity or basicity of food. For example, lemons have an acidic pH between 2-3, while other foods such as egg whites have a pH between 5-6, closer to neutral. Although the numerical scale of pH varies from 0-14, foods in general are usually acidic and are located in the first section.
Regefalk also tells us that, as chefs and developers of new products, they feel very grateful for the incursion that mycoprotein is having in the market and for the challenges it poses in the future: “It is not easy to work with it, since it is necessary to have some prior knowledge of culinary techniques and formulation, but the mycoprotein has many advantages over other alternative proteins of plant origin such as soybeans or peas since it has a meaty texture due to the mycelia of the fungus. A branched structure in the form of threads that is very interesting”. Plant-based proteins do not have that texture naturally, they need to be extruded and need more changes. Therefore, the texture of the mycoprotein is a winner for the Swedish chef and researcher.
Will we see more mushroom mycoprotein in supermarkets?
Mycoprotein currently commands a higher price than other plant-based proteins, a factor that for Regefalk is decisive: “If the industries dedicated to mycoprotein manage to reduce costs, mycoprotein will undoubtedly be a much more attractive ingredient to replace meat. and it will be able to compete with other vegetable proteins such as soy and pea. Mycoprotein has a much more neutral taste than vegetable proteins, which helps a lot. Its flavor should not be masked with additives or spices, since its flavor is already neutral in itself. Especially, bitterness can be a big problem in plant proteins like pea. With the mycoprotein, so many efforts are not needed in this regard”.
According to Regefalk, new mycoprotein-based products have been launched in Sweden this year. For example, products that emulate the nuggets, meatballs and canned tuna. In this way, we see that the mycoprotein is becoming one more ingredient for the food industry. It seems that we will see many more products in the coming years. Especially in the area of restaurants and gastronomy: “There are already mycoprotein products on the market, but they are very rare. I see a very promising future ahead, now a new world opens up. Mycoproteins of different types, textures and from different species of fungi will be offered. We are going to see a very important market for mycoprotein as an ingredient”.
In short, although it may seem strange, really mycoprotein has been with us for many years. Proof of this is the Quorn brand belonging to the British company Marlow Foods: it has been producing mycoprotein-based foods since 1980. Quorn was the one who created the patent for the production of mycoprotein, but it has not obtained great relevance for the general public. However, today consumer trends have changed. We now value alternative proteins much more: mycoprotein is no longer just food “for vegans”. So it aspires to be consumed by the entire population. In the current framework, with the expiration of mycoprotein patents in 2010, many start up and great giants in the sector have embarked on the adventure of mycoproteins.
“Today alternative proteins are no longer a niche product. They are not used to make products for vegans but interest is growing among many consumers. Largely thanks to concern for environmental impact. There we see that the mycoprotein can be the protagonist, without a doubt. It is a very interesting type of protein at a nutritional level. Mainly because it already contains all the essential amino acids, it has a very neutral taste and it is easy to incorporate into formulations with other ingredients”, concludes Regefalk.