few there are more unredeemed lands than Asturias, which since time immemorial has been determined to resist. It is not necessary to resort to the poem by Pedro Garfias, later sung by Víctor Manuel, to remember that “twice twice you have had / the opportunity to risk / your life in a game / and you played it both times”.
Now, luckily, the revolutions that come from Asturias are not bloody, but tasty and may not have the same historical aspect, but they are especially relevant. It is that nonconformity that is found in the hotel CoolRooms Palace of Lightswhich shows that there can be a very high-level hotel industry within the Principality, and it does so from the small parish of Luces, in the council of Colunga, in eastern Asturias.
However, the rebellion is not only what they propose from the hotel, but also what they propose from Tella, their gastronomic restaurant, commanded by a culinary luck of Pelayowho is none other than the chef Francisco Ruiz, a native of the nearby town of Berbes.
Perhaps he is not a king or perhaps he is not looking for a throne —or Michelin stars, although there are wickers for it— but he is certainly combative. Especially against that recurring affront that he synthesizes in the dilemma of quantity or quality and that also faces cachopo with fabada or leaves aside the verdinas or fabes with clams.
Almost 500 years of history
In the other Asturian gene, in addition to the combative character, there is that of the restlessness and go beyond. Beyond, or rather, plus ultra, was where the Victoreros, a family of noblemen from the 16th century, headed when they landed in America.
Upon his return, with full saddlebags and having made Indian money, they returned to this discreet parish where they built the Palace that today serves as a hotel on an immense plot —with a hermitage included— and which since 2019 is a five-star luxury hotel attached to the Relais & Châteaux label.
Among those shines, when it comes to eating, the spotlights point to the aforementioned Tellawhich opens a panoramic view from the dining room towards the Sierra de Sueve that turns it into a backdrop in greens and blues that already makes an impact.
However, the real protagonists arrive in a dish that speaks of traditionboth in recipes and ingredients, but also in creativity to differentiate itself in a part of the Principality where the catering offer in the hotel industry is not at the same level.
A different way of eating Asturias
In front of the cachopo, orchard; before the fried, healthy cooking. “We are surrounded by small suppliers with many small farms and quality markets,” he says of a dependence on the local that, however, allows a great rotation of product.
Oblivious to the categoricalness traditionally associated with Asturias, Tella flaunts green. It is a place for asparagus, for peas, for leeks and so that whatever meat comes in is always of the highest quality.
For this reason, they fight because the meat is from the Casina cow or the Asturian breed from the valleys, in the same way that they stand up for the famous pitu de caleya. “It’s not just any pitu, but the pinto whistles, an autochthonous breed of Colunga himself,” he indicates in front of another product that in recent years has become popular and, by extension, defamed.
The proper name is the leitmotiv of Tella, who also flaunts marine. Invokes him from the oysters of Castropol, in the Eo estuary, and also from local restaurants, including the one in Lastres, which stocks fish that will later vibrate on the grill. “We live off the fish of the day and how the market comes,” he explains.
Feed, not feed
Francisco Ruiz, Pachi in short distances, is annoyed that “Asturias it is known too much for the quantities and that the image of quality is lost”.
A lament from which he protests in Tella, tired of that too “is associated with the fact that in Asturias people eat a lotbut people don’t give value to eating well”.
Two hotel nights in Palacio de Luces (*****).
His message makes even more sense inside the CoolRooms Palacio de Luces, which the property considers “a health and relaxation hotel” in which the mental and the physical must coexist. If those are the wickers, the task of Ruiz and his team is clear: “neither abuse fats nor industrial quantities.”
“We cannot sell health inside the hotel and then the food means a nap from which you can’t even move,” he recalls. The truth is that Tella is the perfect example that there is another possible Asturias and, above all, that there may be an option with the Michelin shine sooner rather than later.
What to ask for: Tella offers two tasting menus, the Tella (longer) and the Sueve (shorter), where we recommend the former. They also have a vegetarian menu and an à la carte option, so the alternatives are very varied.
Practical data
Where: Highway, AS-257, s/n, 33328 Luces, Asturias.
Half price: €55. Tasting menus at 48 euros and 82 euros.
Bookings: 985 85 00 80 and on its website.
Schedules: 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. (11:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday).
Images | CoolRooms Palace of Lights
In DAP | 48 hours in eastern Asturias: what to see and eat from Cabrales to Ribadesella between blue cheeses and grilled fish
In DAP | Casa Marcial (Arriondas), the two Asturian Michelin stars of the chef who never set foot in a cooking school