This eternal question is resolved in a jiffy Jose Luis Berlangachef and owner of Berlanga, the Madrid restaurant, overlooking El Retiro Park, which in just two years has become one of the great leaders in rice dishes in the capital.
So we took the opportunity to talk to this walking rice encyclopedia about other issues related to this irresistible and controversial recipe. And we quickly verify that it is still faithful to his land and his Valencian origins, despite the fact that not a few suppliers tempt you with rice from other areas of the country. We also verified that he is a lover of the naked product and that whenever he can he will flee from the salmorreta.
So who better than this film rice maker to solve one of the big doubts that assails all paella lovers who take advantage of these dates to enjoy one of the star dishes of our kitchen with family or friends. And no, we are not referring to the controversy created by Jamie Oliver as a result of that famous paella with chorizo.
Today in Direct to the Palatewe tell you how much rice per person should be used in the paella. So that you neither over nor fall short. And, by the way, we give you some clues so that you can do the same with a soupy rice. That man does not live on dry rice alone.
Should we ask for rice for one less?
First of all, we cannot avoid asking José Luis about that custom that used to exist in our country of ask for rice for one less. And he confirms that this is no longer done and that “then it made sense because they were very forceful“. But you also have to remember that this had a consideration: if you lay down in the sun after giving yourself a paella-based tribute at the beach bar on duty, you could have a really bad time. Come on, it didn’t make up for it.
He confesses to us that, specifically, this happened in a very specific area of the country. “There was a time in Valencia in which it was customary to order rice for 12 when they were 14 diners, but that generally happened with the Valencian paella because it spreads a lot. Also, you have to take into account that paellas used to be very greasy. If you looked at what was left at the end, it was pure fat.”
Fortunately, over the years, This has changed. And what we can find today when sitting at one of Berlanga’s requested tables is another story: “I hardly use a little extra virgin olive oil, tomato and rice, nothing else. I remove the skin from the chicken, I worry about that the rabbit does not have any fat,…”.
In short, that what order paella for fewer people of those around the table may make sense today if you want to eat other things than just rice. “For example, people in Berlanga usually order the squid rings, the anchovies, the sobrassada or the steak tartar. But if a couple comes, it is normal for them to order rice for two people and, if there is any left over, they take it home” .
How much rice per person to use in a paella?
Finally we come to the subject that drives more than one crazy every time they have to face a paella. Especially since you most likely have to several people around commenting on the play and judging every move we make. But don’t worry, this issue is settled today, thanks to the son of one of the undisputed geniuses of our cinema.
The first thing that should be noted is that in the past they used to talk about handfuls, rather than grams. So that there is no confusion, Berlanga confirms that he has verified that a handful equals 50 grams. So now you know how the equivalences go.
Next, he qualifies: “The perfect measure ranges between 100 and 110 gramsdepending on the type of paella you make”. This is how we arrive at one of the important points in this matter, since a Valencian paella is not the same, “for which 100 grams would suffice because it has a lot of tripe” (chicken, rabbit, vegetables, etc.) than a banda rice, “which would lead us to use 110 grams of rice”.
Be careful, these measurements can be taken into account as long as we are talking about dry rice, in the case of brothy rice the measurements will vary. And although José Luis does not serve soupy rice in Berlanga, that does not mean that he does serve this type of rice when he is with family or friends. So we take advantage of the fact that we have it in front of us to also get information about this modality: “I add less quantity to soupy rice, a single handful (50 grams) per person would suffice. For example, this measure can be applied to a recipe of ” Arròs with fesols and naps”.
And something that does affect all rice dishes equally has to do with a custom that should never be lost. “I always add the regattawhich are those two handfuls that you add at the end, just in case.”
To the Valencian or to the Alicante?
Thanks to this fruitful meeting with the master rice cooker Berlanga, we discovered that he usually makes paella from Alicante, whose elaboration is different from that of the Valencian rice (in which everything is done in the paella). Let’s say that you can do the second ones at home with your friends, but in a restaurant it would be unfeasible. “That’s why we do it Alicante-style,” she qualifies.
In case you still have doubts, with this they will be resolved. “Valencian-style rice dishes are the ones you start making mid-morning and it takes you about two hours. First, you fry the chicken, although more than frying it you have to confit it (it has to be done very slowly). Then you add the rabbit or the rib, to finish with the meats. Next, add the vegetables and make a sauce with tomato and garlic. Finally, add the water and place the rice (in the shape of a cross or making a single strip as a diameter)”.
Now that you are clear that what you have seen your cousin make every summer was a Valencian paella, yours is that you learn what is the other modality. “To make it Alicante-style, we make a chicken broth (with chicken and hen carcasses) on the one hand and, on the other, a vegetable broth (artichokes, leeks, green beans,…) that it took us four days to prepare. ready”. Next you would have to make the sauce and then add the broths and rice.
By the way, since we are talking about broths, if you have had the opportunity to try one of Berlanga’s tasty fish broths and have wondered how they get it, you should know that “we make them with whitebait, crab and galleysomething that is not easy to find in Madrid”. To which José Luis adds: “That is why they give off such an intense smell and taste of pure Mediterranean”.
What is the best type of rice for each elaboration?
Before saying goodbye, we managed to get into Berlanga’s pantry to see what rice do you use daily in the different paellas that are practically not lacking in any order (especially at noon). And, obviously, coming from where it comes from, the origin of the raw material is non-negotiable: “The Albufera is a true natural park, without fertilizers or herbicides, in fact today you still see people manually removing weeds.”
“Instead of the traditional bomba rice, but I prefer to opt for varieties such as Sénia and J. Sendra, other rice from the Albufera”
Next, he confesses to us: “I work with some farmers from the Sueca area (Valencia), Herederos de Viel, who provide me with a very small rice called precisely Albufera. It swells a lot and takes on the flavor very well.” And in this regard we discovered that the most surprising thing about Albufera rice is that in this case the ratio of broth and rice varies considerably. “While the normal thing is to use two parts of broth (or water) for one of rice, in this case we are going to need to use double (four parts of broth for one of rice). In the case of the bomba, to give you an idea, it is closer to three than two.”
He also warns us that all this depends on the size of the pan. If we talk about larger paellas, we can reduce that amount of broth. Since in these cases the layer is thinner and evaporation is faster. At this point it should be noted that “The most important thing is rest”which is when at the end of the whole we leave the rice covered for about four minutes, since “that’s where it’s done.”
“Now Carnaroli is very fashionable, which is an Italian variety that is produced in the Ebro Delta, but, although they are quite good, I still prefer those from Albufera”
In relation to this rest, José Luis recommends us use albal paper at home, as long as it is not too stretched, since the idea is that it is simply supported to allow evaporation. We asked him about the mythical diary paperto which he replied: “Obviously, in a restaurant you can’t use it for hygiene reasons, so I decided to make my own aluminum lids, inspired by movie reel boxes.”
We attest to this, and we confess that just to see those tapas it is worth visiting this Rice temple in the Retiro neighborhood. Although his thing is that, as you get closer, you stop by to say hello to José Luis after having given a good account of the quality of his coveted movie rice. Do not doubt it, here the end is always from a movie.
In DAP | paella recipe
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