When Christmas holidays are coming, sparkling wines (especially cava) monopolize all the prominence on the tables of our country, especially when the time to make chinchín with loved ones approaches. And for many it would be inconceivable to be the night of the 24th or the 31st without a good supply of this wine that is precisely now going through its best moment.
Despite this, one of the most striking aspects is that the DO Cava, which occupies a total of 38,000 hectares, sells 70% of its production outside our borders. It is what leads the president of the DO Cava, Javier Pagesto affirm that “there is no Spanish Denomination of Origin that has such international visibility”. He says so because this product that now governed by new regulationswhich we will talk about below, is present in more than 140 countries.
And, as if all this were not enough, it turns out that wonderful husband with the most representative dishes from cuisines such as Peruvian, Mexican or Japanese. We don’t say it, the Canadian says it Francois Chartierbetter known as the genius of molecular harmonies.
The cava areas
Although the term Cava has historically always been associated with the Penedés wine region (in the municipality of San Sadurní d’Anoia), the truth is that today there are 4 different zones which in turn have subzones (which is perfectly reflected in the new labeling).
But before getting to that, it is worth reviewing what are those areas with which we have to familiarize ourselves little by little:
Comtats of Barcelonawhich includes the Cavas of the region of Catalonia (with the Valls d’Anoia-Foix, Serra de Mar, Conca del Gaià, Serra de Prades and Pla de Ponent sub-areas).
Ebro Valleywith the Alto Ebro and Valle del Cierzo subzones.
Almendralejo Vineyardsan Extremaduran enclave near the city of Badajoz.
Levante areawhich is still pending to be baptized with its definitive nomenclature.
Needless to say, in all of them the producers are governed by the elaboration process which consists of carrying out a second alcoholic fermentation of the base wine in the bottle to let it age. In this regard, Pagés points out that “It is the most demanding regulation in the world. among the quality sparkling wines with DO produced under the strict traditional method”.
The new categories of cava
Another novelty coming from the DO Cava has to do with the minimum months of bottle aging. This is what is known as months of custody, and will range between the 9 months, at least, that you need a Cava de Guardaup to 36 months, as a minimum, that needs a cava to be considered of Qualified Site.
Between these two extremes are the Cavas de Guarda Superior Reserve (at least 18 months of rest) and the Cavas de Guarda Superior Gran Reserva (minimum 30 months of aging in the bottle). Do you want to know what are the differentiating features of each of them? Pay attention!
Storage (more than 9 months): It is the youngest of all, brimming with freshness and is characterized by being light, fruity and citrusy.
Reserve Superior Guard (between 18 and 30 months): Here we are already talking about a long aging. During that time, the wine is away from light and noise. It is a more complex product with greater aromatic richness.
Guarda Superior Gran Reserva (over 30 months): It has even more personality and aromatic complexity than the previous one.
Superior Guard of Qualified Place: Play in another league, it is a unique product that speaks of its location and terroir. To be considered for this badge you need to meet several requirements.
This new labeling that you see above can be seen very shortly in cellars, for those of higher guard we will have to wait even a few months or years. According to the president of the DO, this Christmas we will be able to toast with the new labels if we opt for the youngest and most sparkling.
A cava for every moment
Once we have these basic notions, we focus on Christmas parties for two reasons: because they are just around the corner and because we all like to pretend to be connoisseurs when it’s time to uncork. Take note if you want to know what to resort to at all times.
“For something informal, an aperitif type, where there are going to be a lot of people, I think a cellar can be a great choice, it’s fresh and perfect for these moments to celebrate and share“. It is a piece of advice from Javier Pagés, who also tells us that “it is perfect to accompany anything from chips (french fries) to oysters, including croquettes or olives”.
That you opt for one accompaniment or another it depends on how the extra pay came of each (if it still exists). In any case, you should know that “superior guard cavas, both Reserva and Gran Reserva, are usually more suitable for meals because in that phase of the celebration we tend to be more attentive to what we are drinking and we have all our senses focused on the experience”.
Vacu Vin 38855626-Quick Cooler, Stamped Platinum Color Cooler for Bottles of Cava, Plastic and Gel, Silver, cm
Regarding pairing, Pagés points out that “both are ideal for first coursesboth for a consommé and for some vegetables or a salad, but they also pair very well with the mainespecially with fish.
At this point we can only agree with Master Chartierwhich shows us with facts that the Cava de Guarda goes fabulously with Peruvian cuisine (ceviche, corn, etc.), that the Reserva does the same with Japanese preparations (sushi, katsuobushi, etc.), the Gran Reserva with Mexican dishes (tacos, cilantro, etc.) and Paraje Calificado with that Mediterranean cuisine that you already know perfectly.
And finally the toast
amply demonstrated the great versatility of cavaNow all that remains is to make our glasses collide (very carefully). “Toasting with sparkling wines is something that has always been linked to celebrations and doing it with cava at Christmas is a tradition.”
After verifying that Pagés is also very traditional, we asked him why it is that we like that moment of the evening so much. To which he replies: “I think it’s something that usually likes a lot for all the ritual around: chilling the bottle, the ceremony that is created at the moment of opening it, that characteristic gunshot that always scares someone, choosing the glasses and, of course, the toast”.
We confirm that that deafening sound It is what really motivates us, year after year, to want to be in charge of filling the glasses of cava. And before saying goodbye, we cannot avoid asking the person who has just been unanimously re-elected president of the DO, why your wishes for the new year. And he is very clear: “that people value this product more and more, which seems impressive to me, and that it have greater visibility in the world of cooking, both nationally and internationally”.
Of course, for excellent references it will not be. As an example of good practice, a reference from Vins Familia Ferrer that we were able to taste during the first edition of the Gastronomic Tour of Cava in Madrid. We talk about Can Room 2008, a Cava de Paraje Qualified brut nature aged for 160 months. This is the latest vintage on the market of an estate cava whose production follows a philosophy of minimal intervention in the cellar.
This means that the grapes are picked manually and pressed in an old vertical wooden press from 1895. Then, ferment by gravity, and the varieties are vinified separately in 4,000-litre tanks. Finally, it will go through an aging of more than 10 years.
Juvé & Camps Milesimé Brut Reserva 2017 with case
And you should not lose sight of the new collection of sparkling wines from Juvé & Camps, from vineyards in three of its best terroirs. Milesimé Xarel lo 2017, Milesimé Chardonnay 2018 and Milesimé Blanc de Noirs 2018 pinot noir are an infallible trio in which soil, variety and climatic year show the purest possible synergy, which translates into balance and elegance.
Is Grand Reserves collection, aged for up to 36 months, is only produced in excellent years, moments in which the harvest reaches a very special state of grace that allows the production of wines that convey that unique link with the origin. The plots from which each of these Milesimés comes are found in the Espiells estateand are owned by Juvé & Camps.
In DAP | How to preserve champagne or cava once opened so as not to waste the bottle (and why putting a teaspoon is useless)
In DAP | Thirteen wine women recommend their favorite national sparkling wines