Pablo Lopez Ibarra He is an old acquaintance of the Madrid gastronomic scene. right hand of Roberto Martinez At Tripea, with whom I also work in Nakeima, the time had come for him to embark on a personal project. A decision he made after eating a fried quail in Seville.
“The story is very romantic,” he explains. “I was eating a fried quail in Rupert Housein Seville, with a manzanilla and I thought that this was not available in Madrid”.
The famous quail from this popular Sevillian tavern is served marinated and fried, but after several tests, López came up with his own version: “I have made them vacuum-packed, at a low temperature, marinated, marinated… But at home I used to confit and fry them . And it is the best way. Sometimes you need a long time to see that you don’t have to put so many things on the plates. You have to remove and remove ”. A minimalism that has a lot to do with the philosophy of another of the great restaurants in Madrid that López has passed through: the Tasquita in front.
López had no idea that quail would become the iconic dish at his new restaurant, but as soon as Brutalista opened, almost a year ago, it was immediately clear that this was going to be his star recipe.
“Sometimes these things happen, but because they need to happen,” says López. “All restaurants have a star dish or should. At Tripea it’s the mussels, Sacha has his vague omelette, Nakeima his black bao. I didn’t know it was going to be the quail, but I wish. It is a magical dish. And I’ll tell you why: it’s pure scandal. Oil and salt are wasted, they are made 50 at a time. You could start a business just with this dish. In Seville they have done it. It is easy to produce and serve. It is tender and falls apart. And everyone likes it.”
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The quail is the only fixed dish on a non-existent menu. López limits himself to offering three menus, of 28, 38 and 50 euros, which vary only depending on their size. Dishes come and go that López sings daily and that revolve around his personal allegiances, such as offal, pickles or cooking with vinegars and Jerez wines.
There are touches of asian fusiona kitchen that López has mastered in the great banners of the genre in Madrid, but always at the service of dishes that have their raison d’être in traditional Spanish cuisine.
“I have already done the other thing,” López explains to DAP. “If I have a site, I want it to be contemporary, and now is the past. We have been following a trend in recent years in what the most modern is the most artisan. What is left is being rescued and importance is given to these things”.
In Brutalista, in addition to the quail, there are always two or three marinades, another of the brands of the house. “The goat throws into the bush,” admits López. “I was always the one with the pickles. When I opened it, I did other things, but the marinade pulled and I said, well, more”.
The marinades of rabbit, oxtail or cheeks, traditionally made, but always with some Asian touch, either in the form of spices or in garnishes where López does not hesitate to mix Asian or Italian pasta. “My kitchen has fusion, because it does, but I follow Luis Lera’s maxim: if the modern contributes, do it, but if not, stay with what works”, he explains.
Eat well for 50 euros
There is also a lot of offal in Brutalista, with some excellent tripe and cold meats of tongue and ear that are served cold, in a salad. “We like offal, also because of the costs,” admits López. “The ear is cheaper than the Norway lobster.”
And it is that in Brutalist you eat luxury for about 50 euros, wine included, something that at this level of cuisine is already a luxury in Madrid. To drink there are many interesting options ranging from 20 to 30 euros. And it is the cook himself who recommends the wines that he has every day. “I saw that it was closer,” he explains. “You talk to people and it’s easier to hit the mark.”
In the end, López explains, the important thing was to have a restaurant in which he himself, who admits going to Michelin stars – like almost everyone else – only on birthdays or big celebrations, could repeat: “If you come back it’s because you feel like itNot because you can’t afford it. In the end, the margin is that people come back, it is not what you are going to get that day, but that people come back and fill up. If you achieve that you will already have a business”.
What to ask for: the special menu, which includes almost all the dishes available, is very extensive. For dinner it’s okay to ask for the 38-euro one, if anything with an extra. The best thing, in any case, is to be recommended by López. Here you don’t run the risk of being nailed.
Practical Data
Where: Juan Álvarez Mendizabal, 34. Madrid.
Half price: €50.
Bookings: 911 595 777 and on its website.
Schedule: Closed Monday and Tuesday.
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