On June 2, 2021, the famous Tocqueville restaurant, located on the corner of the Fifth Avenue and 15th Street in New York, suffered a fire at its entrance which, together with the effect of the water used to appease it, destroyed a large part of its interior.
Its brave owner and executive chef Marco Moreira He immediately got to work not only to return the place to its glory as soon as possible, but also to take advantage of this misfortune to completely renovate it and in turn merge two projects into one. Almost two years later, he has achieved it and with a vengeance. The result is 15 EAST @ Tocqueville.
Without fear there is no passion, Begoña Rodrigo, La Salita
Tocqueville (which honors the memory of the 19th century French thinker, politician and historian Alexis de Tocquevilleauthor of the great work Democracy in America) was born around the year 2000 as a “chic” and innovative French restaurant that soon conquered the demanding tastes of Manhattan diners, accustomed to enjoying a varied and rich gastronomic offer.
Later, Moreira launched into creating an unparalleled Japanese concept, 15 EAST, one of the first places to offer a omakase bar in the city of skyscrapers, which earned it its first star from the prestigious Michelin guide. Now, after a devastating fire in the middle of a bloody pandemic, 15 EAST has closed its doors and both culinary concepts have been reimagined under one roof. The journey has been long and arduous, especially when we look back two years.
The Brazilian Marco Moreira is not one of those people who cringes in the face of adversity or challenges, no matter how big they may seem, which led him to jump into the reconstruction of the premisessupporting his team during these uncertain times – which is an example to follow worthy of admiration in an industry that, like the restaurant industry, has gone through difficult times.
Today, the perseverance, the job well done and the dedication of a team led by Moreira himself have paid off, as we were able to see in person during the unforgettable dinner which we enjoyed at 15 EAST @ Tocqueville.
After being greeted by the charming restaurant manager, the Polish Fatima Kuras, we sit in its elegant and cozy main dining room that blends the Mediterranean with New York haute cuisine. The Spanish sommelier alfredo ruiz we were greeted with a glass of Mandois “Brut Origine” champagne from Épernay, as an aperitif to the extraordinary feast that followed, which began with a fresh plate of grilled octopus with aubergine, black olive and cucumber, followed by a delicious Foie gras from the Hudson Valley with truffle and bacon.
The original fried egg with polenta, truffle and Parmesan cheese foam caught our attention, as did the creative pairings made for each dish by the friendly Ruiz, who jumped from California to Spain, with stops in neighboring France, in one 25 page letter where nothing is left over or lacking.
It would be difficult to single out one dish over another, but there is no doubt that the duck with tangerine and endive jam It really made our mouths water, as part of a tasting menu with different options in constant evolution, where we must highlight the invaluable work of the great Parisian chef Julien WargniesMarco’s right hand.
When it comes to desserts, the offer is also varied. In our case, the apple confit with cream created by the pastry chef Armando Mendez It struck us as the perfect ending to a memorable evening.
Tocqueville is not only back, but like the Phoenix, has risen from its ashes with renewed energy, the result of the commitment and dedication of the chef and businessman Marco Moreira. When the horizon was not in sight, he never gave up on his dream and now he has finally realized it. From here we applaud his vision and his unwavering faith in a project that once again illuminates the gastronomic offer of the New York Big Apple with more force than ever. Bravo!
Practical data
Where: 1 East 15th Street, New York, NY 10003
Half price: to fill
Bookings: (1) 212-647-1515 or on their website.
Schedules: only dinners from Tuesday to Saturday.