The chef Cristian Solana, from the El Puntido restaurant in Laguardia (Álava), has won first prize in the XV Medieval Pinchos and Tapas Contest that has just been held in Hondarribia. The young chef from Alava, who was entering the competition for the first time, thus becomes the ‘medieval chef 2023’, beating the other six candidates competing in the final.
This contest, which has been held since 2008, is an initiative of the Network of Medieval Cities and Villages, which seeks to disseminate the historical and cultural legacy of the towns that make it up, in such a way that the recipes presented cannot contain ingredients after the discovery of America. But modern techniques can be used.
Thus, the recipe for the winning tapa or pincho, as defined by its author, is summarized in its name (alchemy) the search for contemporary creative techniques to redefine traditional medieval ingredients. Furthermore, the chef’s intention was bring the sea closer to the Rioja Alavesainspired by the medieval tradition of bringing fish inside through salting or brining.
The base of the skewer is a crispy filo dough in a trompe-l’oeil style that suggests leather, on which a roasted eggplant foam prior to the shoot, a typical and iconic vegetable from the Laguardia garden, to which Solana adds an extra touch of flavor with tahini.
It is on the foam where the main fish is placed, chicharrowhich is accompanied by three elements that link it to the food preservation techniques used in the Middle Ages: anchovy in brinethe pickled caper and lemon zest, linking with the citrus used in these techniques. As a culmination, a nasturtium leaf.
Second place in the competition went to the chef Gorka Irisarri from Gastroteka Danontzat-Hondarribia (Gipuzkoa), several times finalist and 2012 champion, for his tapa ‘Erromesa’ (“pilgrim”). The originality award went to Severiano García from the restaurant of the Hotel Oasis in Jerez de los Caballeros (Badajoz), with its curious ‘Copa de trout’.
The Network of Medieval Cities and Villages integrates seven municipalities in Spain and Portugal that stand out for their valuable and rich medieval heritage: Almazán
(Soria), Estella–Lizarra (Navarra), Hondarribia (Gipuzkoa), Jerez de los Caballeros (Badajoz), Laguardia (Álava), Marvão (Portugal) and Sigüenza (Guadalajara).
The Cid’s kitchen. New expanded edition: History of the food and banquets of medieval knights (Historia Incógnita)
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Photos | Medieval Villas
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