Hunters of exotic spices who have not yet been able to let themselves be carried away by the fragrant notes of mahlab They already have a new treasure to search for. Lovers of the spiced pastriesfans of Middle Eastern cuisine or detractors of the abuse of bad cinnamon and the ginger trend, this peculiar ingredient will undoubtedly find a place in your pantries.
He mahlabalso called mahlep, mahaleb, mahalab either maylepamong other variations, is the little seed which is extracted from the bone of a tree also curious for its popular names, the Saint Lucia cherry tree or Muhammad’s cherry tree (Prunus mahaleb). The path to obtaining the spice itself ready to use in the kitchen is not exactly simple or intuitive, but we thank whoever had the happy idea the first time to try it.
What exactly is mahlab
Mahlab as a spice is the ground or finely grated seed of the fruit of the Saint Lucia cherry tree, a tree of the Rosaceae family, highly branched with smooth, dark gray bark, and white flowers that bloom in spring. Towards the beginning of summer they give way to some small fruits They are reminiscent of common consumer cherries, but smaller in size and somewhat less regular in shape, with the appearance of spherical drupes that turn a dark reddish tone when ripe.
These fruits are of no interest for human consumption due to their great bitterness, but they are highly sought after by birds and other animals, which usually destroy them when they grow in the wild. This cherry tree appears to be native to present-day Iran, and is widely distributed throughout Mediterranean countriesfrom Spain to the Middle East, North Africa and even areas of Central Europe.
The stone of small cherries houses the seeds, which actually look like tiny almonds protected by the hard shell. They are light brown or beige in color, with a rough surface, and usually do not exceed 5 mm in length.
What does this spice taste like?
Describing the aroma or flavor of mahlab is complex, as it awakens many nuances different ones that are reminiscent of other more familiar ingredients, but creating a unique, deep but at the same time subtle, suggestive mix.
Raw it brings us notes of bitter almondripe or cooked cherry and floral touches of rose and orange blossom, sometimes also reminiscent of vanilla and very slightly of nutmeg, with a clearly bitter aftertaste. When it goes through the action of heat it becomes much more pleasant and all its aromatic notes are fully developed, much more fruityless bitter, with something that inevitably takes us to the kitchens of the most eastern and somewhat exotic Mediterranean.
Traditional uses
Although the Santa Lucía cherry tree is also present in Spain, the use of the spice is practically unknown today in our country, having much more tradition in other countries on the Mediterranean coast, until it dominates the cuisine of Near East and Middle East.
Although it can be found in meat, fish or vegetable dishes, usually stews, soups or tagines, mahlab is mainly used in sweets, pastries and bakery more tender and sweet. In Greece, Turkey and Armenia there is usually no shortage of enriched breads for holidays and celebrations such as Easter and Christmas, such as tsoureki, vasilopita wave poğaça and all its variations depending on the country.
In Egypt they are also fond of using it in desserts, flavoring preparations with honey, nuts and seedsand it is also found in the filling of maamoul of Arabic tradition and dairy desserts or porridge simple like some variations of rice pudding, like creamy mahlbi.
How to use mahlab in the kitchen
This spice can be found whole, with its almond seed form, or ground, but it is advisable to opt for the first format whenever it is available, since will be better preserved and its fragrance will be more intense.
It is easy to grind the seeds manually with a good mortar or grinder of spices or coffee that we use for this use, even the most crafty will be able to grate them with a special small grater, like nutmeg. The whole seeds can be lightly toasted and used for infuse liquids or directly flavor a stew or roast.
Using mahlab is simple, like any other common spice. In doughs and sweets, all you have to do is add the desired amount to the dry ingredients or flour, alone or combined with other spices. It has an intense aroma and it is not necessary to use a large amount to notice it, it is a matter of trying, starting for example with one teaspoon for every 150-200 g of flour in a regular cake or cookies, for example.
In addition to the traditional uses mentioned, this ingredient works very well flavoring meats for roasting or grilling, as part of a dressingand gives a very special touch to roasted vegetables, fruit compotes or jams. It is perfect to enrich a garnish rice or couscousand for desserts with a large dairy presence, such as cheesecake, traditional custard or the typical Catalan cream.
Like any other spice, we can find it in online stores, specialized spice or international product stores, and also in local markets and shops that offer products from North African or Eastern European countries. And it should always be stored in a clean containerairtight, in a dry, cool and dark place.
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Photos | iStock/Esin Deniz – Leslie Seaton – Dunk
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