The white delicacy (in Catalan, white menjar) is a typical Lent dessert, which is prepared in the Tarragona regions of Camp de Tarragona and Terres de l’Ebre and is made almond or rice based depending on the regions.
From the century-old company Menjablanc de Reus, which makes this dessert in sachets, its spokesperson Robert Franquetexplains that it is a typical dish from medieval times, including late medieval times, with indications that in the 8th century the Arabs were already working it.
“It is a typical Catalan dessert but it is not unknown in the Mediterranean basin”, he indicates. In fact, this dessert It is even made in Latin America and specifically in Brazil it is known as white delicacy.
As for the origins, there is certain evidence in the area that the dessert began to be made in the monastery the Cartuja de Escaladei before the need of the monks for some desserts that did not have meat or animal derivatives (eggs or the milk of the Catalan cream) for Lent.
The recipe appears in the first medieval cookbook of Spanish cuisine
The religious wanted to avoid sweets that contained yoghurt, milk or animal ingredients in their base. A posteriori, milk has been added depending on the season and the availability of this, while currently it is made with other vegetable milks, such as barley, nuts and soybeans, which although they change the flavor, it is “plausible” to do it in these ways, stresses Franquet.
The recipe appears in the first medieval cookbook of Spanish cuisine, Sentsovi’s bookfrom 1324, who describes him as a stew with chicken breasts and wings mixed with almond milk, rice to thicken it and sugar.
A Don Quixote dessert
In the renowned chivalric novel by Miguel de Cervantes, The Quijoteboth the character of Don Quixote and that of his henchman Sancho Panza try this dessert on their way through Barcelona. Being guests of Antonio Moreno, they take this white delicacy with him and some friends.
However, this is not the only literary reference to this dessert, which also appears in medieval cookbooks such as the Llibre de totes maneres de potatges which includes two versions with chicken. The doctor of the King of Aragon, Arnau de Vilanova, recommended the cook a Fiber-for-Fiber Cut Chicken Versionalthough why it was considered healthier cut this way is unknown.
Past the religious needs of the monks of the time, Franquet remarks that “desserts are now seasonally adjusted and they are eaten hot and cold and combined with many things”. For example, they are eaten with neulas (wafers), chocolates, citrus fruits, nuts and a wide range of ingredients.
However, in its origins, in Catalonia it was a “hypernutritive” dish with many comings and goings. Yes initially it was an aristocratic dish of royal class due to its meat content, it was also food for the poor, depending on the abundance or absence of its ingredients.
It started as hypernutritious food based on chickens and white meats, later it ended up being a dessert. Now, the chicken and hen version is no longer made, and with the advent of sugar and the ease of obtaining it, it became a dessert and has remained as a sweet ending.
From Reus they claim their paternity, not in vain is it called Manjar Blanco de Reus. In fact, this area is one of the largest producers of nuts in Catalonia. If in this area its base is almonds, in the Ebro it is made with rice from the vast fields of the Delta.
In Reus it is made from almonds, while in the Delta rice takes center stage
“It has nothing to do with it. They use rice to curdle and to give it flavour, while in the Reus formulation corn starch and wheat flour are used to curdle, while the flavor resides in the almondFranquet defends.
At the other extreme, from Tortosa Turisme, they point out that the white delicacy is typical of Reus, but that it is also consumed in the Ebro area. “Us, in Tortosa, we have always made it with rice flourand this would be the main difference”, they point out.
At the anecdotal level, they explain that on a trip to Egypt they found that there was this dessert “with the same flavor” and surely made with rice flour. “This makes us think the possible Arab past of this dessert“, they add.
From tub to spherification
Although its typical presentation is in a tub, in recent times different establishments have tried to give it a “more dignified” touch and go beyond the Catalan cream tub, so that we have worked with silicone hemisphereswith glasses and other formats.
In the case of the Menjablanc de Reus company, they make it in sachets, with a “specific flavor” although different from the traditional pastry. “It has a very high quality and is a quick alternative with a great taste and great quality”, describes Franquet.
Regarding the current preparations offered by the different establishments, which vary the ingredients to adapt, for example, to low-sugar diets, Franquet assures that “For consistency, the blancmange has to be kept white“, and if there are things that change the taste and color, this ceases to be blancmange, for example by adding brown sugars or honey. “It will be brown manjar”, he laughs.
Its tasting at the end of the meal makes it possible to pair with any sweet wine, such as muscatel, but for a few years there has been the possibility of combining it with blancmange liqueur. “It’s a good combination that gives it a very interesting touch,” he remarks.
As for its uniqueness, many people confuse this dessert with rice pudding, especially since there are territories where rice pudding is prepared very finely. As Franquet points out, in the rice pudding the flavor is given by cinnamon and lemonwhile the blancmange has another flavor, that of almonds.
“The rice pudding is rice pudding and the white manjar is an almond cream,” he sums up. Although today it is customary to make horchatas from various dried fruits, he explains that his traditional elaboration is an almond horchata: these are crushed finely and strained. Then it goes back to the pan with cinnamon and lemon and puts the cornstarch to thicken it.”
the traditional recipe
The expert in traditional cuisine Joseph Lladonosa details in his recipe book La cuina catalana. 800 receptes d’avui i de semper (RBA) that are needed to make white manjar 1.4 kilos of peeled raw almondswhich must be put in water and crushed with the blender until a very homogeneous liquid mixture remains.
This mixture must be left to rest overnight in the refrigerator, and then strain the result. On the other hand, you have to dilute 50 grams of starch with a part of this almond milk and put the rest of the milk on the fire with a stick of cinnamona pinch of salt, a piece of lemon peel and 200 grams of sugar.
Let it boil for five minutes over low heat and meanwhile add the starch mixture while stirring. When the liquid takes on a bit of body, remove it from the heat, strain it and fill the moulds. Before consuming, let it cool.
The best patisseries to try them
Although if one does not dare to try this dessert at home, you can always go to the best pastry shops in the area where you can try it:
Pedreny Confectionery
With more than 200 years of history, Confitería Pedreny, founded in 1815, is known for its long family history and for the elaboration of traditional sweets and cakes. The place has an artisan workshop where it makes its products in a traditional way that can be tasted on the spot in its cozy cafeteria.
C. del Hospital, 15, 43201 Reus, Tarragona. T. 977 34 30 21.
Pastisseria Caelles
Since 1957, Pastisseria Caelles has been run by generations of pastry chefs. They began by making cocas and the typical dry pasta of the area, as well as panellets, nougat, Easter cakes and white manjar. The word of mouth extended the fame of the place, which increased the capacity of its business until it needed more space in its definitive location.
Cami Tarragona, 1, Reus, Tarragona. T. 657 252 039.
lime poy
The Astisseria Poy Pastry Shop, as it has been known in Reus for many years, is one of the most emblematic confectioneries in the town. Founded in the early 20th century; has based its existence on the quality of the raw materials in the workshop. The store combines tradition and modernity with special attention to the quality of its products.
Carrer Raval Jesús, 8. Reus, Tarragona. T.977312475.
Pastisseria Llaurado
With an offer based on the wood oven, This patisserie stands out for the loyalty of its customers. They make both savory proposals, especially bread, and sweets, especially a white delicacy that is famous in the area.
Av.Doctor Vilaseca, 10, Reus, Tarragona. T. 977 315 452
Alqueza Bakery
With more than 75 years of experience making bread in Tortosa, at the Alqueza Bakery they make all kinds of sweet and savory products and are a benchmark of quality in the Terres de l’Ebre area.
Carrer d’Ossó i Cervelló, 4, Tortosa, Tarragona. T. 977 510 671.
Pictures | iStock, Kafael Ahmed, Sarah Chai, Mareefe, Lukas and Menjablanc de Reus.