This eternal question is solved in a jiffy Jose Luis Berlangachef and owner of Berlanga, the Madrid restaurant, with views of El Retiro Park, which in just two years has become one of the great references in rice dishes in the capital.
So we take the opportunity to talk to this walking rice encyclopedia about other issues related to this recipe as irresistible as it is controversial. And we quickly check that it is still faithful to his land and his Valencian origins, despite the fact that not a few suppliers tempt you with rice from other areas of the country. We also verified that he is a lover of the naked product and that whenever he can he will flee from the salmorreta, which was something whose existence he was completely unaware of until, at the age of 65, they offered it to him as soon as he opened the restaurant.
So who better than this movie rice maker to resolve one of the great doubts that assails all paella lovers who take advantage of these dates to enjoy one of the star dishes of our kitchen with family or friends. And no, we are not referring to the controversy created by Jamie Oliver as a result of that famous paella with chorizo.
Today in Direct to the Palatewe tell you how much rice per person should be used in paella. So that you neither over nor fall short. And, by the way, we give you some clues so you can do the same with a broth rice. That man does not live on dry rice alone.
Do we have to ask for rice for one less?
First of all, we cannot avoid asking José Luis about that custom that existed before in our country of order rice for one less. And he confirms that this is no longer done and that “then it made sense because they were very forceful“But you also have to remember that this had a consideration: if you lay in the sun after giving yourself a paella-based tribute at the beach bar on duty, you could have a really bad time. Come on, it wasn’t worth it.
He confesses that, specifically, this happened in a very specific area of the country. “There was a time in Valencia when it was customary to order rice for 12 when there were 14 diners, but that usually happened with the Valencian paella because it spreads a lot. Also, you have to keep in mind that the paellas used to be very greasy. If you looked at what was left at the end it was pure fat.”
Over the years, fortunately, This has changed. And what we can find today when we sit down at one of the requested tables in Berlanga is another story: “I just use a little extra virgin olive oil, tomato and rice, nothing else. I take the skin off the chicken, I worry about that the rabbit does not have any fat,…”.
In short, what of order paella for fewer people of those around the table may make sense today if you want to eat other things than just rice. “For example, people in Berlanga usually order squid rings, anchovies, sobrassada or steak tartare. But if a couple comes, they normally order rice for two people and, if there is any leftover, they take it home” .
How much rice per person to use in a paella?
Finally we come to the topic that drives more than one crazy every time you have to face a paella. Especially since you most likely have a several people around commenting on the play and judging every move we make. But don’t worry, this issue is settled today, thanks to the son of one of the undisputed geniuses of our cinema.
The first thing to note is that in the past people used to talk about handfuls, rather than grams. So that there is no confusion, Berlanga confirms that he has proven that a handful equals 50 grams. So now you know how equivalencies go.
Next, he clarifies: “The perfect measure ranges between 100 and 110 gramsdepending on the type of paella you make”. This is how we arrive at one of the important points of this matter, since a Valencian paella is not the same, “for which 100 grams would suffice because it has a lot of bumpiness” (chicken, rabbit, vegetables, etc.) than an arroz a banda, “which would lead us to use 110 grams of rice”.
La Perla – Albufera rice, denomination of origin rice from Valencia, 1kg
Be careful, these measures can be taken into account as long as we talk about dry rice, in the case of broths the measures will vary. And although José Luis does not serve soupy rice in Berlanga, that does not mean that he does not serve this type of rice when he is with family or friends. So we take advantage of the fact that we have it in front of us to also get information about this modality: “I add less quantity to the soupy rice, a single handful (50 grams) per person would suffice. For example, you can apply this measure to a recipe of ” Arròs amb fesols i naps”.
And something that does affect all rice dishes equally has to do with a custom that should never be lost. “I always add them the regaetawhich are those two handfuls you add at the end, just in case.”
To the Valencian or to the Alicante?
Thanks to this fruitful meeting with the master rice cooker Berlanga, we discovered that he usually makes Alicante-style rice dishes, whose elaboration is different from the Valencian rice (in which everything is done in the paella). Let’s say that the seconds can be done at home with your friends, but in a restaurant it would be unfeasible. “That’s why we do it Alicante style,” she clarifies.
In case you still have doubts, with this they will be resolved. “Valencian rice dishes are the ones you start making mid-morning and it takes about two hours. First, you fry the chicken, although rather than frying it you have to confit it (it has to be done very slowly). Then you add the rabbit or the rib, to finish with the meat. Next, you add the vegetables and make a sauce with tomato and garlic. Finally, you add the water and place the rice (in the form of a cross or making a single strip as a diameter)”.
Now that you are clear that what you have seen your cousin do every summer was a Valencian paella, his thing is that you learn What is the other modality?. “To make it Alicante-style, we make, on the one hand, a chicken broth (with chicken and hen carcasses) and, on the other, a vegetable broth (artichokes, leeks, green beans,…) that took us four days to obtain. clever”. Next, you would have to make the sauce and then add the broths and the rice.
By the way, since we are talking about broths, if you have had the opportunity to try one of Berlanga’s tasty fish broths and have wondered how they get it, you should know that “we make them with whitebait, crab and galleysomething that is not easy to find in Madrid”. To which José Luis adds: “That is why they give off such an intense smell and taste like pure Mediterranean”.
What is the best type of rice for each preparation?
Before saying goodbye, we managed to get into Berlanga’s pantry to see what rice do they use daily in the different paellas that are practically not lacking in any order (especially at noon). And, obviously, coming from where it comes from, the origin of the raw material is non-negotiable: “La Albufera is a true natural park, without fertilizers or herbicides, in fact today you still see people manually removing weeds”.
“Instead of the traditional bomba rice, but I prefer to opt for varieties such as Sénia and J. Sendra, other rice from the Albufera”
Next, he confesses: “I work with some farmers in the area of Sueca (Valencia), Heirs of Viel, who provide me with a very small rice called Albufera. It swells up quite a bit and takes on the flavor very well.” And in this regard we discovered that the most surprising thing about Albufera rice is that in this case the proportion of broth and rice varies considerably. “While it is normal to use two parts of broth (or water) for one of rice, in this case we will need to use double (four parts of broth for one of rice). In the case of the bomb, to give you an idea, it’s closer to three than two.”
He also warns us that all this depends on the size of the paella. If we talk about larger paellas, we can reduce that amount of broth. Since in these cases the layer is thinner and evaporation is faster. At this point it should be noted that “the most important thing is rest”which is when at the end of everything we leave the rice covered for about four minutes, since “that’s where it ends up being done”.
“Now the Carnaroli is very fashionable, which is an Italian variety that is produced in the Ebro Delta, but, although they are quite good, I still stick with those from the Albufera”
In relation to this rest, José Luis recommends use albal paper at home, as long as it is not very stretched, since the idea is that it is simply supported so that it allows evaporation. We ask about the mythical diary paperto which he replies: “Obviously, in a restaurant you can’t use it for hygiene reasons, that’s why I decided to make my own aluminum covers, inspired by the boxes of film reels”.
We attest to this, and we confess that just to see those tapas is worth a visit to this rice temple in the Retiro neighborhood. Although his thing is that, as you approach, you go to say hello to José Luis after having given a good account of the quality of his coveted rice dishes. Don’t hesitate, here the ending is always like a movie.
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