Mezcal is one of the Mexican drinks of which we are most proud, since there is a whole refined culture around its consumption, derived from its history, production process and the complexity of its notes. For this reason, it is more and more frequent that those who like mezcal want to know in depth everything about its production, with the aim of having a more complete and conscious experience of this distillate. Undoubtedly, one of the best options to get fully involved in the world of mezcal is the one that you can experience in the The Lovers Distillerywhere you will come out loving this drink from the agave more. Go ahead and take a tour of its facilities!
What will you find at Los Amantes Distillery?
Los Amantes begins its history with the opening of its mezcalería in the Historic Center of Oaxaca in 2007. This space became a pioneer in the redignification of mezcal in Oaxaca and Mexico, since until then it was considered a poor quality drink, the result of the black campaigns launched by other sectors of the alcohol industry. As a consequence, today Mezcalería Los Amantes is one of the most traditional in the Oaxacan capital.
Subsequently, in 2010, under the name of Casa Mezcal, the production of Los Amantes was positioned as one of the best drinks in its category in New York. It was then that a whole project began around the artisanal production of quality mezcal.
An ancient knowledge
Located in the Tlacolula, Oaxacathe Los Amantes distillery allows you to learn, through guided tours, how mezcal is produced by hand. The architectural beauty of Los Amantes sets this mezcal house apart from others. The project for the building –the work of Rootstudio– is made of stone, wood, bamboo and terracotta, materials that contrast with concrete and steel. In turn, the building is surrounded by 10 hectares of fields that end with the pre-Hispanic ruins of Yagul, the mountains of the valley and adjacent works of art in harmony with the gardens.
there, the mezcalero master Amando Alvaradooriginally from Santa María Ixcatán, is the bearer of traditional knowledge so that the spirit of mezcal reaches its greatest splendor.
Alvarado is not only heir to the ancestral techniques for making mezcal, such as the use of animal skin to ferment the maguey, he is also zealous with the community vocation involved. According to his testimony, previously there were no people specialized in the production of the distillate, but rather it was a manufacture whose objective was to supply mezcal at popular festivals.
“For me, mezcal is community, making mezcal allows us to support our community and
keep their traditions aliveExplain Loving.
Because preparing mezcal is not easy or cheap, the native populations often come together in groups to make family batches together, which reduces costs and work. As a consequence, during the process, not only is the day shared, it is also a time to share food and listen to music in the company of friends. Thanks to Amando, all this is preserved in the palenque –as the maguey cooking ovens are known– of Los Amantes.
The maguey cut, the beginning of everything
However, making mezcal begins much earlier with the planting of maguey, of which there are several varieties. Among the most common magueys is the Espadín, whose maturation oscillates between 8 and 10 years. However, there are species that take 20 years to grow or that only occur in the wild. In both cases, their protection and sustainable reproduction is required, which occurs with the help of natural pollinators such as birds or bats.
This is followed by the stage of maguey cut, which is done with the help of the coa, a shovel-like tool with a flat, sharp tip. Then, the teacher Alvarado and his assistants proceed to clear the plant of its leaves until only the heart is left, a part that weighs about 80 kg. Finally, the hearts are cooked, the objective of which is to release their sugars and make them juicy.
Cooking of the heart, fire and community
In Los Amantes cooking is done with the help of red-hot volcanic stones. No firewood or other fuels are used, as they would alter the natural flavors of the mezcal.
Subsequently, the hearts are cut with the help of an ax and placed in the palenque, to finally be buried and allowed to cook for a period ranging from 2 to 5 days.
When the mezcalero teacher gives the instruction, the hearts are dug up and passed to the crushing area, which is traditionally done with the help of animals. With this, the must is obtained that passes into the jars within the fermentation area of the mezcalería.
According to Montserrat Sierra, guide at Los Amantes Distillery, the wort becomes a beer thanks to environmental yeasts. During this period it is essential to take care of the fermentation, since variables such as temperature can cause it to accelerate. The average time for this stage ranges from three to five days.
Distilling The Lovers
Once the must has transformed its sugars into alcohol, it is then filtered and goes on to the final stage, the distilled. This last stage is carried out with the help of a still, a tool that separates the alcohol from the rest of the substances thanks to the variation of the boiling points. The distillation process can be done up to two times, depending on the style of the mezcal.
As it is a mezcal produced by hand, no batch of Los Amantes is the same, each one is unique. For this reason, before being bottled, Amando tries it, along with all those who collaborated in the production process, as a way of celebrating and thanking for this unique drink in every way.
Among the styles of mezcal produced at Los Amantes Distillery are:
- young sprat
- rested sprat
- old sprat
- Zebu: Young sprat
- Cebu: joven distilled with Chipito
- young tobala
- Ensemble: Madrecuixe / Arroqueño / Tobalá
- wild barrel
- wild cirial
Rodrigo Osegueda Philosopher by training. Contemplate the soul and imagination of Mexico.