Festivities such as All Saints’ Day allow us to recover traditions and remember other times, not so distant, but that today seem so different to us. The Sweet porridge They are the quintessence of humble cuisine, an energetic dessert made with very humble ingredients, but each spoonful fills you with a certain childhood nostalgia.
Although they are present in other regions, with similar recipes in other countries, they are especially typical of Andalusia. Although in areas such as Seville they are known more as poleas, and are more popular at Holy Week, in other places such as Jaén they are associated with the feast of All Saints and the Day of the Dead.
Oil, flour and milk they are the base of this kind of thick custard, in addition to the sugar or molasses with which it is sweetened. The characteristic aroma is provided by the lemon peel, the anise or matalahúva, and the cinnamon, which can be infused with milk or oil, depending on the recipe. Because, as always with these traditional dishes, there is no single recipe. We have been guided by the indications of Ana María Gutiérrez and the result has been a complete success; the best thing is how easy they can be customized to the taste of each house.
Heat the milk with the lemon peel, the cinnamon and, optionally, a good spoonful of Matalahúva. Without letting it boil, turn off the fire when it smokes and let infuse. Cut the bread into cubes the size of croutons.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan and fry the tostones until they are golden brown, but without burning. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on absorbent paper. Strain the oil to remove impurities from the bread, and reheat. It can also now be flavored with lemon peel and anise beans, if we have not done it with milk.
Pour the flour with a little salt and stir with a few rods to toast it lightly, being very careful not to burn it, as if we were making a roux. Add the milk without the cinnamon and without the lemon (or now add the cinnamon if we have not made the infusion) and cook stirring incessantly to dissolve the lumps.
When it begins to thicken, add a splash of anise liqueur and sugar to taste. Continue cooking over low heat, stirring gently, until you have the desired texture. If they are to be taken cold, it must be remembered that they will thicken more.
Correct the sugar level and thickness to taste, adding more milk or a little water if necessary. Split in two clay bowls or casseroles (or in four more moderate servings) and serve with the croutons, ground cinnamon and cane syrup, optional.
With what to accompany the sweet porridge
Tradition mandates serving the sweet porridge on All Saints’ night or on the following day, All Souls Day, although because they are somewhat forceful, we recommend taking them at snack time or as an energetic breakfast. They can be served hot, warm or cold, and they also hold up well in the fridge until the next day, covered with plastic wrap touching the surface. They are accompanied with croutons, ground cinnamon and, optionally, cane honey, and combine very well with a good coffee.
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