Through social networks, a video was disseminated in which the French brand Sezane, founded in 2017 by Morgane Sezalory, is carrying out a photographic production in the market of Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, with the use of an image of a Zapotec woman. The denunciation of exploitation as cultural capital was such that the brand canceled its campaign in Oaxaca.
Through the publication of a video on social networks, it was accused that Sezane came to Oaxaca to drink from his surroundings and his people, since his production crew made it easy for him to take an elderly woman in the market . This, despite agreeing with the people who managed the photographs that they would not have interaction with people.
Despite the limitations, Sezane’s production did not stop and she dressed a Zapotec lady – using it as a pop – with a green sweater that is part of her collection and they made her dance while she was observed and photographed.
“Visually, the evidence in a video is reminiscent of painful episodes in human history, such as ‘human zoos,’ instruments of exploitation and racism,” says Guillermo Fonseca, fashion critic and creative consultant.
It is said that for the woman to accept, they offered her $ 200 Mexican pesos. In this regard, the Instagram account @ lienzos.extraordinario managed by Bupu Cortés ruled “if we cannot plagiarize, let us use the people of indigenous peoples as cultural capital.”
The page that posted the complaint mentioned that the woman was treated as if she were in a shop window and that violated her rights. In addition, they add that she was not treated with respect in the face of the health contingency, since they did not wear face masks.
Guillermo Fonseca also criticized the brand for not being consistent with its ‘Certification B’, which represents those brands that show environmental and social commitment.
After 10 hours of the complaint post, the brand made the decision to cancel its campaign in Oaxaca.
The reaction of the National Institute of Indigenous Peoples (INPI)
The complaint in networks reached the INPI and by means of a pronouncement he condemned the act the act for undermining the dignity of peoples and reinforcing racist stereotypes.
He also called on private brands and companies to stop exploiting indigenous and Afro-American peoples and communities as cultural capital.
In addition, he warned that they will undertake a legal appeal with the authorities of Teotitlán and the aggrieved persons using article 21 of the Federal Law for the Protection of the Cultural Heritage of Indigenous and Afro-Mexican Peoples and Communities, which establishes that the peoples and communities “may request intervention of the competent authority when it is considered that, from the use of the elements of the cultural heritage, acts have been carried out that threaten or affect the dignity and cultural integrity ”.
The accusations of plagiarism and cultural exploitation in Mexico are not something new, the Mexican government and civil society work to defend indigenous communities. International brands such as Louis Vuitton, Carolina Herrera, French designer Isabel Marant and Zara have been at the center of the accusations.
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