We are sure that who more or less will have heard of the azelaic acid and the doubt has arisen what is it and in what cases is it advisable to use it. Well, here we are to solve all the doubts that may arise in this regard.
What is azelaic acid
To start we will give you some more technical data. Thus, according to the Spanish Association of Paediatrics, they define it as a topical antibacterial, belonging to the group of dicarboxylic acidswhich has one comedolytic action and, to a lesser degree, anti-inflammatory, and an antimicrobial action. It inhibits the keratinization of the follicle, preventing the appearance of comedones and can also improve post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation residual.
In fact, it is an acid that is found in wheat, as well as rye and barleyin fungi such as Malassezia furfur, which helps to remove skin blemishes. In this way, for some time now it has been sneaking into our language beauty forming part of the carboxylic acids.
How to use azelaic acid
There are different formats, as we will see below, to be able to incorporate it into our routine. So we are talking about aa topical application that is recommended twice a day (morning and night) and can be used even on people with sensitive skin.
In any case, as precautions that we have to take into account is that if we have dark skin it can cause hypopigmentation and also, as it contains benzoic acid, which is slightly irritant to skin, eyes and mucous membranesand propylene glycol, which can cause skin irritation, so before launching, it is preferable to do tests on small areas of the skin, as well as use it every other day and, in any case, consult a dermatologist to advise us what is best for us.
Azelaic Acid Benefits and Uses in Dermatology
In general terms, we can say that azelaic acid is mainly indicated for acne relief mild to moderate in the facial area constituting a alternative to benzoyl peroxide or topical retinoids in the treatment of this type of acne that we mentioned; It is also ideal for the topical treatment of rosacea, as well as for the melasma depigmentation. Therefore, it also has an illuminating effect on the skin, which means rejuvenation.
Acts as a “signal inhibitor” interrupting the progression of emerging skin problems in the upper layers of the skin. In this way, thanks to this effect we could prevent progression to skin problems of pigmentation spots, redness, scars, a dull complexion and increased sensitivity. And it is that, “instructs” the cells of the upper layers of the skin how to behave, which results in smoother and visibly healthier skin, regardless of age, skin type or skin problems.
But it is also considered one of those cosmetics multi tasking, since it is valid for skin with acne and rosacea, but also to reduce the appearance of blemishes, refine the surface of the skin by improving tone, reduces sensitivity and acts as a powerful antioxidant.
Therefore, its uses are very varied thanks to those actions that we have mentioned:
- Anti-inflammatory action: it is capable of inhibiting the inflammatory action of ultraviolet radiation (UVB), also of reducing the presence of free oxygen radicals (ROS) characteristic of stress or cell oxidation (inflammation) and inhibiting the inflammatory cascade of MAPK kinases in the skin (1,2).
- Antibacterial action: It reduces the proliferation of bacteria on the skin, not only those that have been implicated in acne, as it is bactericidal.
- Keratolytic action: It reduces the thickness of the stratum corneum and smoothes the skin in a similar way to retinoids, it reduces blackheads by 87% about 45 days of use, as well as comedones.
- Decreases melanin synthesis: it inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, which has been shown to be useful for the treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or melasma.
Another thing to keep in mind is that your use is safe during pregnancy, not being photosensitive, can be used at all times of the year and can be used even in . In cosmetics, it can only be used in concentrations of up to a maximum of 10% and between 10-20% is considered medicine and, therefore, prescription needed.
Azelaic acid for acne
As we have pointed out, azelaic acid is a good ally against acne and is applied in the form of a cream, washing and drying the areas to be applied.
And it is that he has thanks to his inflammatory and antibacterial capacity is a great option. But it is that in addition, azelaic acid also acts on keratinosis and excess fat since it has an exfoliating effect on the keratin of the skin, helping to remove the excess, as well as reducing excess sebum, typical of oily skin and one of the factors for the development of acne. However, it is true that it can be used on all skin types.
Azelaic acid for skin blemishes
Another of the strengths of this ingredient is the one that concerns skin blemishes. And it is that this acid has depigmenting properties being indicated for skin care in case of hyperpigmentations either melasma. In cases, azelaic acid is responsible for inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase and replacing abnormal melanocytes with normal cells.
But be careful, because if we add niacinamide it achieves much more effective depigmenting and sebum-regulating functions, so when choosing, combining them would be a good option.
In these cases, to treat melasma, they are usually indicated concentrations at 20%, in this way we will reduce the pigmentation and it has an effect on some 24 weeks. Of course, given that concentration we can only buy it with a prescription.
How long does it take for azelaic acid to work?
This is one of the questions that most often go through our heads when we start using a new treatment. However, as in all cosmetics, it is a matter of taking it easy since, according to experts, improvement is usually noted after 4 weeks of treatment.
However, as we have already pointed out, for the treatment of stains we will need some 24 weeks.
What is azelaic acid indicated for?
How to use azelaic acid
There are different formats, as we will see below, to be able to incorporate it into our routine. So we are talking about aa topical application that is recommended twice a day (morning and night) and can be used even on people with sensitive skin.
Of course, we have to be constant in this application since, according to experts, improvement is usually noted after 4 weeks of treatment.
In any case, as precautions that we have to take into account is that if we have dark skin it can cause hypopigmentation and also, as it contains benzoic acid, which is slightly irritant to skin, eyes and mucous membranesand propylene glycol, which can cause skin irritation, so before launching, it is preferable to do tests on small areas of the skin, as well as use it every other day and, in any case, consult a dermatologist to advise us what is best for us.
Azelaic Acid Cosmetic Options
In this sense, there are many options that we find in the market in the form of serum, creams or gel type with concentrations of up to 20%. However, it is also present as a secondary ingredient in many cleansing products, creams, anti-spot or anti-aging treatments…
Specifically, we propose some outstanding products that, without a doubt, can become good options for our daily beauty routine.
We start with the Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% by The Ordinary (10.40 euros) which, we are told, helps to visibly improve the uniformity of the skin’s texture and reduces the appearance of imperfections.
THE ORDINARY Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
Another option we have is the Azelaic Radiance Face Treatment by Freshly Cosmetics which is a treatment for facial acne and reactive skin (35.00 euros) with which to prevent and treat the signs of acne, rosacea and couperosis such as pimples, blackheads, inflammation, redness and rashes.
Azelaic Radiance Face Treatment by Freshly Cosmetics
Azelaic Acid Booster 10% by Paula’s Choice (41 euros) combines azelaic acid, salicylic acid and plant extracts that gradually improve the consistency of the skin. Salicylic Acid removes dead skin cells, provides a deep cleansing action and has been shown to reduce blackheads. Azelaic Acid is an antioxidant that calms irritated skin and gives it an even finish. Adenosine is used to improve the regenerative process of the skin.
Thanks to this composition, it reduces pigmentation spots, gives skin a more luminous appearance and is ideal for all skin types, especially those prone to rosacea.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Serum – Facial Serum Reduces Blemishes and Fights Blackheads – with Salicylic Acid – All Skin Types – 30 ml
Of the brand Democracy comes to us with 10% Azelaic Acid + Niacinamide It helps prevent the appearance of blemishes and reduce existing ones. It minimizes the marks left by pimples and prevents the proliferation of bacteria that cause acne and rosacea through its antiseptic activity. Also, contains anti-inflammatory properties that reduce redness and calm the skin. Its price is 19,95 EUR.
10% Azelaic Acid + Niacinamide from Democracy
Gema Herrerías also has the 12 Azelaic-N (32.07 euros) that hydrates, has an antioxidant function, improves the appearance of blemishes, redness and seboregulates. Come on, a marvel of those that we can call off-road.
Gem Herrerias 12 Azelaic-N
And from Sederma We leave you two more options in two formats. This first is the Liposomal Serum Azelac RU (33.90 euros) with a mainly depigmenting function.
Liposomal Serum Azelac RU Sesderma
and the Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 also from Sesderma (30.90 euros) with liposomal depigmenting active ingredients that improve the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone. It also has SPF 50, contains physical and chemical filters that protect from UV damage from the sun.
Azelac RU Luminous Fluid SPF 50 Sesderma
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