torrezno fever reaches ice creams (there is also butter and blood)

torrezno fever reaches ice creams (there is also butter and blood)

The essence of ice cream is summarized in a balance between aromas and flavors, plus a part of fat, which we have naturally associated with creams and milk, but there is a world beyond.


Only a select few belong to that world, and one of them, if we speak of ice cream, is Fernando Saenz, dubbed ‘the cold chef’, which in Grate & Dellasera, where this Rioja ice cream maker It has elevated the culture of this.

Years ago he hit the ball with his wine ice creams, but has crossed the line in the Third Iberian Forum, held in Salamanca, where he has turned some of the most iconic pork products into his creations.

Chinchorras (a cookie with lard), mantecado (real butter), blood (curdled blood, like that of blood sausage) and torreznos. Yes, torreznos, you have read well and nobody has gone crazy.

Fernando Saenz with his torreznos ice cream (roasted lemon).

The process, a priori simple, has been in his mind for years and has materialized in the face of this congress, from where will go to your workshop next week under the suggestive name of ‘roasted lemon’.

There is no cream and no milk in the preparation, where the texture and the binder are placed on a tray by the lard itself. Substitute lard and water for the milk. “We take the percentage of fat that whole milk would have and mix it with water. Then we stabilize it with rice starch,” he explains.

However, there is not all the magic of this concern, which sprinkles with torrezno (I insist, yes, torrezno). “It’s just water with cooked butter and a point of sugar. Just three and a half grams per liter of sugar, so it’s an ice cream suitable for lactose intolerant“.

From there we go to a fresh lemon fried in lard. “It resembles the lemons that were put in roasts of suckling pig and lamb, which in this case we toast with the butter,” he says.

Hence, to the miracle of the torrezno. “We take a torrezno, chop it and turn it into chichas. We fry well and add cane sugar. Then we degrease it with water and let it drain to make a kind of toffee, “he says.

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Jump like this to the shredder with all the ingredients: fried lemon, buttermilk and torrezno toffee. Along with them, other stars of the cuisine with Iberico such as blood ice cream (which he will baptize as Iberian mole), mantecado or chinchorras (old-fashioned biscuit).

Images | Jaime de las Heras

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