The chef from Huesca Tono Rodriguez Iguacel It may not be known to the general public, but it is a usual suspect in Spanish gastronomy. Full member of the Spanish Cuisine Selectionhas twice been awarded the prize for Best Chef in Aragon and his name does not stop ringing on the podium of all kinds of competitions, to which he is in the habit of presenting himself.
“I I am very competitive and I always have been”, he explains to DAP, in relation to the contests. “Apart from giving you visibility and publicity, you meet people, see what others are doing. They form”.
Until now, however, Rodríguez’s name was associated not with a restaurant, but with his company, Caterings y eventos del Pirineo, with which has done everything in Huesca: weddings, food for groups, prepared dishes, ice cream… Even pet food, a somewhat strange order that he had in the midst of a pandemic when, he explains, everything had to be done.
It was with the arrival of the covid-19, with all the events at best half throttle, when Rodríguez decided to open a restaurant on the farm where the weddings were held, located in the tiny town of Sardinian, very close to Sabiñánigo: its large terrace allowed it to survive. This is how La era de los Nogales was born, a space in the heart of the Pyrenees in which to enjoy everything that Rodríguez’s cuisine has to offer. Which is not little.
Its long tasting menu, from 15 passes plus petit fours, is a gift: although it has a level that could well deserve a Michelin star, it is served for only €53.50, half of what it would cost in other areas of Spain. Of course, the restaurant works against the background of the events, which have already been held on the farm again, so it can only be visited from Tuesday to Thursday.
His second attempt to achieve the star
Rodríguez’s objective is to get the Michelin star that escaped him in his last attempt, when he commanded the burning restaurantin Zaragoza, sponsored by the chef from Huesca Carmel Forest (from Lillas Pastia).
Rodríghez pursues creative cuisine, far removed, he assures, from the prevailing discourse
His experience in the restaurant, which he had to combine with the Sabiñánigo business – where his family stayed – did not end well. But he was left with the thorn of serving a gastronomic menu beyond catering and events.
After decades in a business that he learned with his mother, also a cook, Rodríguez is clear about his path. Although he has been trained in stew cuisine – “that classic cuisine from which you build whatever you want” – today he pursues a creative cuisine, far removed, he says, from the prevailing discourse.
“Today everything has to be kilometer zero, sustainability, local product…”, explains the chef. “In fact It is a reaction to what was, more avant-garde or fusion. And now it seems that you can’t say ‘fusion’ or that you can’t do more creative cuisine”,
It’s not that there isn’t room for territory on the menu for The Age of Walnuts. There is sturgeon from the nearby El Grado fish farm, a pioneer in raising this primitive fish, which Rodríguez matures for a week and then submerges it for an hour in salt water and cooks it for only 11 minutes at 65 degrees. The result is magnificent, the best sturgeon that a server has tasted to date.
There is also lamb from Aragon, the two dishes that close the salty part of the menu: a stew of lamb neck with chilindronwhich is served wrapped in a filo pastry, and a Iberian agné damcooked at low temperature and then grilled, accompanied by exquisite chestnut bread.
But, although Rodríguez makes an effort to promote the good Aragonese product, he does not give up working with other ingredients that he likes, such as tuna –the tartare that is served at the beginning of the menu is fantastic– or the Red shrimpwhich is served on a large plate, accompanied by a fried egg foam and a sobrassada from Majorca
“I do what I want and I give the dishes that I like”, Explain. “You see, there is little cheese because I’m not a big fan of cheese.”
A special mention for the desserts
The menu of La era de los nogales maintains a high level during all screenings; but, contrary to what usually happens, surprising especially in desserts, a field in which Rodríguez is a true master: it was not in vain that he spent two years working as a pastry chef at El Sotón, the veteran restaurant in Esquedas (Huesca), famous for its events – and today also for the Michelin star that its renovated Space N–. “I really like to eat sweets and I really like to make them,” admits Rodríguez.
Its star dish, which has been with the chef for ten years and never leaves the menu, is a delicious ice cream sandwich of passion fruit, lime, mango, coconut, ginger and vodka, which is served accompanied by what is known as electric flower (Acmella oleracea): an extremely acidic plant that, when in contact with the tongue, paralyzes it for a few seconds. The experience with this flower can be excessive if it is not used carefully, but Rodríguez has calculated everything perfectly, and the dessert, also acidic, provokes, after downloading, a surprising explosion of flavor in the mouth.
Then, to sweeten it even more, a chocolate, coffee and tamarind mousse, accompanied by an olive oil ganache and crispy coffee. a lovely dessert and very well done.
Now all that remains is for the public to get to know Toño Rodríguez’s cuisine beyond weddings. “Many people, even in Sabiñanigo, have come here for a wedding but he does not know that we are a restaurant. And it’s a shame that being here two minutes away they don’t know.” Something that we hope will change today.
SAFLAX – Toothgrass/Paracress – 500 seeds – Acmella oleracea
What to ask for: To try Rodríguez’s cuisine, it is mandatory to ask for the tasting menu, which for €53.50 is more than recommended. For those who want to repeat, there is another menu, more focused on traditional cuisine, which costs 32.50 euros.
practical data
Where: Low Street, 2, Sardas. Huesca (Aragon)
Half price: tasting menus of 32.50 and 53.50 euros. Wines from 12 euros.
Reservations: 693019479 and on their website.
Schedules: open from Tuesday to Thursday, lunch and dinner.
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