The commutative property of mathematics tells us that The order of the factors does not alter the product, but this principle, whose formulation is attributed to Pythagoras, never works in gastronomy. Especially when we enter the territory of regional customs, always subscribed to controversy.
This is the case that we could classify as the great spanish breakfast debate: should we put the oil first or put the tomato on the bread first?
Though there are strays everywhere, custom seems to have a regional distribution. In Catalonia and Aragon, the tomato is always added before the oil, a custom, the majority, which has spread throughout almost all of Spain. Only in Andalusia, and not in all the provinces, are they staunch advocates of adding the oil first.
Is there a culinary reason or is it just a matter of customs?
The tomato bread journey
In Catalonia, the famous Pa Amb Tomàquet has some “sacred rules”which are consecrated even from official instances: the tomato is rubbed on the bread and then the oil is added.
In Catalonia and neighboring Aragon no discussion In this regard. If you pour the oil before you can end up disinherited. They are deeply tomatoists. Visca l’oli lliure.
In Catalonia if you pour the oil before you can end up disinherited
But, although bread with tomato is Catalan national heritage, there are indications to think that, perhaps, the charnegos brought it. at least that counts Laura Cornejo in La Opinion de Murcia, which explains that it was the Murcian workers who emigrated to Barcelona and its surroundings in the 1920s who began to add tomatoes to stale bread, with the main objective of softening it.
Currently in Murcia, and in much of Spain outside of Catalonia and Aragon, there are more than mash the tomato before adding it to the bread, then add the oil and salt. In this regard, of course, there is also discussion: in Catalonia do not talk to them about crushing the tomato, which should always be rubbed. Ferran Adrià even set up an exhibition around this at CosmoCaixa. An artist.
The Andalusian case
The aceitismo is the almost exclusive heritage of the Andalusians, the most staunch supporters of pouring the oil before the tomato, especially in the western part of the community. His theory: pouring the oil before soaking the bread wellsomething that does not happen if you have already added the tomato.
Undoubtedly, in gastronomy, tradition weighs more than technical aspects
“The people are from the north put the tomato first because its oil is bad”, comments Antonio, from Malaga, where they are more oil workers than in neighboring Granada or Almería. “Well, they’re probably right, but I’d rather do it as usual in the family than do it right.”
Undoubtedly, in gastronomy, tradition weighs more than technical aspects. But what do the experts think?
the sevillian Rafa Zafra, chef at the Estimar restaurant, worked at elBulli and, since then, has spent a good part of his professional life in Barcelona (where his partner is also from). He has known both worlds.
“It has made me very funny because it is true that here in Catalonia there is a lot of respect for this, the bread is always impregnated with the tomato and then the oil is added”, explains Zafra. “In the past, in traditional Catalan houses, the tomato was put on two sides of the bread, not just on one, so that it had more. The one who put the most tomato, the more power he had. What is true is that, in Andalusia, especially in Seville, this culture of rubbing the tomato on the bread does not exist, that’s why you put oil and then you put the grated tomato or a tomato emulsion, almost a salmorejo”.
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Of course, we have forced him to get wet. “I like Catalan better”, answer. “It is not a story of putting the oil first, here what makes the difference is that in bars when you go to breakfast the most important thing is to rub the tomato on bread, something that is not found in Andalusia. For me this is the real difference. Now, if you ask me who does the best fried fish…”
Tomato bread divides Spain, but there is always room for national reconciliation.
“I first add oil, then tomato, and then oil, so that the oil soaks the bread a little, but also has the superficial oil to notice the texture in the snouts and smell it”, explains Paco, from Valencia. You really know, Paqueras.
This report was originally published on May 18, 2021.
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