The town of Wheel (Valladolid) It has only 1,300 inhabitants, but 17 wineries, in which some of the most popular white wines in Spain are produced. However, the denomination of origin to which it gives its name, dominated by Verdejo grape wines, spans a region that is a historic crossroads and crosses the south of the province of Valladolid from Segovia to Zamora.
For a few years, the Rueda wine route has been the backbone of a region’s tourist offer ideal to visit on a weekend, which we could consider the very heart of Castilla: a borderland, full of vines, olive trees and cereal, with interesting wines and excellent gastronomy.
Today we propose you a perfect weekend getaway to know the Rueda underground cellars, the historic cities of Medina del Campo, Tordesillas and Olmedo, and enjoy the typical food of the area.
Day 1: Castronuño, Tordesillas and Olmedo
Tomorrow: a walk through the Riberas de Castronuño
It is worth starting the tour of the Rueda area in Castroñuno, one of the last towns of the denomination of origin, almost on the border with Zamora. There we find the only Natural Park of Valladolid, which protects the banks of the Duero River, in the largest meander it makes on its way.
It is mandatory to take a walk through the riparian forest, formed mainly by poplars, willows, poplars and ash trees, and stopping to observe the birds: it is not difficult to see herons, hawks or alcotanes.
After taking a walk, there is nothing like having a coffee and a sweet in the Xokoreto patisserie, located in one of the best enclaves of the town, next to the river. There José I. Colinas invoices some exceptional cakes and ice creams, which one would not expect to find in a municipality of only 800 inhabitants.
Food: Parador de Tordesillas
To eat we move to the outskirts of Tordesillas, where the Parador is located. In its spacious restaurant you can enjoy traditional Castilian cuisine, but the menu highlights an unknown dish that is worth trying: the turresilane rooster.
The dish emerged in 1994, in the celebration of the V Centenerio of the signing of the Treaty of Tordesillas, with which Spain and Portugal divided the navigation areas of the Atlantic and the New World. Cooks from all over the region gathered to recreate a historical dish, rescuing as raw material the free-range rooster, which at the end of the 15th century was used to commemorate the great festivities. The rooster is fried and then cooked with garlic, vegetables and white wine. For this reason alone, the visit to the Parador is worthwhile, the place where it first began to be served.
Afternoon: Tordesillas
Located next to the Duero, Tordesillas is a very pleasant city to visit in an afternoon: a crossroads where a thousand battles have been fought. It is essential to visit the Santa Clara Monastery (National Heritage), the Houses of the Treaty and the Church of San Antolín.
But, in addition to visiting its main monuments, it is mandatory to take a walk through its medieval streets and the Main Square, an interesting example of the architecture of the Castilian porticoed square.
With regard to the zampa, it is mandatory to enjoy some of the sweets of the Galicia patisserie, where the famous El Toro polvorones.
Dinner: El Caballero de Olmedo Restaurant
For dinner we went to the town of Olmedo. After taking a walk through his interesting historical centerIt is recommended to dine at the El Caballero de Olmedo restaurant.
Although it is famous for its wood-fired oven roasted lamb and its Grilled meat and fishIt also has a snack menu, ideal if we are looking for something lighter: it has good toasts, torreznos, salads … Some are also served local specialties, such as the pata de mule cheese, very typical of the area, or the loin of daggerboard.
In Olmedo it is also one of the best hotels in the area de Rueda, the Balnerio de Olmedo, in Castilla Termal. And, whether we stay or not, its restaurant, El Hontanar, where it is practiced, is not a bad option. a more modern kitchen.
If we have time to spare, or we sleep there, Olmedo also has one of the best pastry shops in the area, Frías, famous for its toasted cream casseroles. A vice.
Day 2: Rueda, its wineries and Medina del Campo
Morning: visit the wineries and cheese factories of Rueda
On our second day it’s worth getting up early to spend the morning visiting the so-called “wine triangle”, formed by the towns of Rueda, La Seca and Serrada, where the bulk of the DO Rueda wineries are concentrated. This is one of the largest vineyards in Castilla y León and, wherever we go, we will enjoy the Verdejo landscape, covered by pine forests and cereal fields.
There are many wineries that can be visited, but if it is our first time in the area, the most striking thing is to explore some of the underground cellars, that extend by the subsoil of the towns.
The most striking (and veteran) are De Alberto, which has the largest extension of tunnels, and Menade, which in addition to having another interesting underground winery, has a more modern production plant, with a pleasant bar where you can enjoy its organic wines along with a careful selection of tapas with local products. An aperitif of ten.
In addition to tasting the classic young white wines of the area, no one should indulge in the golden wine, a historic wine made in the way of Jerez that some wineries –among others Menade and De Alberto– are recovering.
After visiting one of the wineries, there may be time to go to Serrated, a town that has been placed on the map for its cheese making. There is the famous Campoveja cheese factory, which conducts workshops and visits, and makes one of the best cheeses in Catilla y León, which has received multiple awards. Cheese lovers will also want to visit Cheesemonger, in Rueda, a unique project that has recovered old underground cellars to carry out cheese refined. Another ideal place to have an aperitif.
Food: The Matapozuelos apothecary
In the small town of Matapozuelos you will find the only restaurant in the area with a Michelin star: the Matapozuelos pharmacy. There, chef Miguel Ángel de la Cruz bills a local cuisine, where the products of the nearby forests are the absolute protagonists.
Besides tasting menus (65 and 80 euros) has a menu if you don’t want such a copious meal. They also make great roast lambs custom made.
Afternoon: Medina del Campo
We finished our weekend in Rueda in Medina del Campo, which competes with Tordesillas in accumulation of historical-artistic heritage. It is essential to visit the imposing Castillo de la Mota, one of the best preserved Renaissance fortresses in the world, as well as the Royal Testamentary Palace and the Tower and Collegiate Church of San Antolín.
Medina del Campo is also known as the Fair Village. Historically, it has been one of the most important economic centers in the area, and it preserves important events such as the handicraft fair, the one for local products or the one dedicated only to ecological elaborations. It is worth checking the calendar of events before setting out on the journey.
Directly to the Palate | What to see and eat in 48 hours through the Lobos River Canyon, the Burgo de Osma and surroundings of this area of Soria
Directly to the Palate | How is the night harvest done? We visit the DO Rueda